Posted by: caffeevino | December 1, 2007

My Homeland (Edinburgh, Scotland)

I love being in Scotland. I’m looking forward to getting back and having a pint…

**Billy Boyd**

Lord Aberdeen was quite touched when I told him
I was so attached to the dear, dear Highlands and
missed the fine hills so much. There is a great
peculiarity about the Highlands and Highlanders;
and they are such a chivalrous, fine, active people.
Queen Victoria

We woke up and after breakfast headed off to King’s Cross Station where we jumped on a train bound for Scotland. This ended up being an interesting experience, as we did not know that you had to reserve your seats. So for the first hour or so of the ride we sat on the floor of the “atrium” part of the car. After a few stops people left and the seats were open to anyone, so luckily we spent the majority of the ride in comfortable seats watching the beautiful English, then Scottish countryside fly by. I felt transformed into some sort of Jane Austen or Bronte sister novel as I saw numerous manors, farms, and foggy countryside roll by as our train whipped through the landscape.

Just at dusk we arrived in Edinburgh. I had no idea what to expect and what I found was the most charmingly haunting city I have ever laid eyes on. My breath caught in my chest as I stepped out of the station and looked up into the dark, Gothic buildings that seemed to only exist in the novels I enjoyed so much. I simply stared in awe at the small capital of Scotland.

We walked through the old streets and found High Street (or the Royal Mile). Our hostel was an old building that sat right off of High Street. The workers were so nice and had even upgraded us so we shared a room with only one other girl who was really sweet. We dumped our stuff, cleaned up a bit, and hit the town, which was now covered in darkness except for the few streetlights. This only added even more charm and romance.

We walked up High Street to the Castle, which was closed, then walked back down looking for a pub. We found a place called the Mitre, which was cheap prices but the pub was beautiful and full of character. The bar tender was really nice (and cute) and talked to us in that amazing Scottish brogue which we could barely understand. We ordered Scottish beer and Stake and Ale pie, then cozy-ed into a booth. The food was amazing!! Stake and Ale pie became a new favorite. For dessert we ordered chocolate cake and I enjoyed a bit of scotch.

 

After dinner we walked down the North Bridge to Princess Street in the area considered “New Town” but is still very old. One side was lined with shops and hotels, but a beautiful park that stretched for quite a while lined the other side. In this park was a monument to Sir Walter Scott (author of Ivanhoe) and other famous authors of Scotland. We then crossed over the Waverley Bridge and walked through the “hippy” part of town. Edinburgh has a thriving “alternative” subculture. It was also named one of the safest cities in Europe.

The next morning we grabbed toast and tea and coffee then headed to the Castle. It was quite “Lord of the Rings”-ish. I was impressed with the Chapel of St. Margaret, which is the oldest building in town. The castle was impressive and quite beautiful. It was made up of many stone buildings and surrounded by walls and different levels of defense. There were exhibits on the Scottish royal line, the controversies of the rulers, and I got to see Bloody Mary’s rooms and where she spent some of her last nights in Scotland.

In the Castle bookshop I found the most exciting thing in all of my travels: a book about my family, the Douglas Clan (my dad’s mom’s side). It was a history of the clan. The Douglases were a political family who lived on the border. Sir William Douglas was a friend and advisor to Robert the Bruce (of Braveheart fame). They had many castles and properties, many of which were burnt down to keep them from the English. Needless to say they were a colorful bunch and many of them ended up married to English royalty while some of them tried to assassinate the English royals. After the castle we went to the tartan factory and I was able to buy some scarves that were the Douglas Clan Tartan (blue and green plaid).

From there Ashley and I went to the Mitre to enjoy more beer and Stake and Ale pie, while Meghan headed off on her own for a bit. We then walked the gardens again on Princess Street. I found a bench dedicated to someone with my mom’s mom’s maiden name, Orr (also Scottish).

Sadly, at four o’clock we bid farewell to what is now my favorite town of all my travels.


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